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The gear list, in the order you will actually need it.

28 things around the printer, grouped by the job they do. Each entry says what it has to do, and what to look at on a listing before paying.

Updated

No prices, no rankings, no brand named as best. ZORVA sells none of this and earns nothing from it — every link is a marketplace search on the term sellers actually use, not a route to a particular shop.

Buy first

If today you buy only 8 things

These are the ones whose absence costs you parts, spools or the machine itself in the first few weeks. Everything else on this page can wait.

  1. 01Filament dryer
  2. 02Sealed box + rechargeable desiccant
  3. 03Digital caliper, 150 mm
  4. 04Flush cutters
  5. 05Hex keys and drivers
  6. 06Double-sided PEI spring steel sheet
  7. 07Wash-and-cure station
  8. 08Nitrile gloves

01 / 6 groups

Moisture first, in this climate

Outdoor humidity across most of Vietnam sits around 75–85% year round. Wet filament does not fail loudly: it prints pocked surfaces and brittle thin walls, and you will blame the machine for three months before you suspect the spool. This is the group that pays for itself fastest.

  • Filament dryer

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    PETG, TPU, nylon and PC all pull water out of the air, and at Vietnamese humidity one night with the bag open is enough to pit a surface. A dryer is the only thing that takes water back out; a dry box only keeps a dry spool dry.

    What to check before you pay

    Temperature range
    At least 70 °C if nylon or PC is in your future; 55 °C covers PLA and PETG
    Spool capacity
    One spool is enough to start; two-spool units save bench space later
    Feed-through
    A grommeted outlet so the printer can pull from inside the box
    Timer
    Multi-hour setting with auto-off, not a bare on/off switch

    Where this goes wrong

    • Units that advertise a high number with no word on control — many cheap boxes are a bare heater with no sensor, and the real temperature is nowhere near the label.
    • Drying PLA above 55 °C: its glass transition sits just above that, and the spool welds to itself.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “máy sấy nhựa in 3d filament dryer”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:How to dry filament properly (and know when it's wet) ↗

  • Sealed box + rechargeable desiccant

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Dry a spool then leave it on the shelf and you are back where you started within days. A gasketed box plus a few hundred grams of indicating silica holds the inside under 20% RH, and the bead colour tells you when to regenerate it.

    What to check before you pay

    Lid gasket
    A rubber seal and latches, not a friction-fit lid
    Desiccant
    Indicating silica gel, the kind you can regenerate in an oven or the dryer
    Hygrometer
    Many boxes ship with one; if not, drop a loose one inside

    Where this goes wrong

    • The single-use sachets that ship with filament: they saturate within weeks and after that they are just paper in a box.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “hộp đựng cuộn nhựa in 3d kín hút ẩm”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:How to dry filament properly (and know when it's wet) ↗

  • Small digital hygrometer

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    A dry box is an assumption until something measures it. A cheap hygrometer inside turns the assumption into a test: if it does not fall below 20% overnight, either the seal leaks or the desiccant is spent.

    What to check before you pay

    Size
    The small square kind that fits beside a spool
    Range
    Reads to 10% or below — many cheap ones bottom out at 20%
    Quantity
    Buy a pack of three to five, one per box

    Find it

    These open a search for: “ẩm kế điện tử mini đo độ ẩm”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:How to dry filament properly (and know when it's wet) ↗

  • Vacuum bags for stock spools

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    The dry box is for the spool in rotation. Stock spools keep their factory state in a vacuum bag with a desiccant sachet, and they do not take bench space.

    What to check before you pay

    Bag size
    Sized for a 1 kg spool, roughly 200 mm across
    Valve
    One-way valve you can pull down with a household vacuum

    Find it

    These open a search for: “túi hút chân không đựng cuộn nhựa”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

02 / 6 groups

The six things that live beside the printer

None of these make a part prettier. They make it measurable, removable and fixable. A cheap caliper still beats guessing, because every fit problem starts as a dimension nobody measured.

  • Digital caliper, 150 mm

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Everything in printing reduces to a dimension: does the hole take the bolt, is the wall thick enough, how much did the part shrink. Without a caliper you edit the model by feel and reprint three times.

    What to check before you pay

    Resolution
    0.01 mm is the common step, and it is enough
    Body
    A stainless body outlasts a plastic one at the same price
    Controls
    Zero and mm/inch buttons, and a coin cell you can actually replace

    Where this goes wrong

    • The cheapest carbon-plastic ones: the jaws flex under hand pressure, so the reading depends on who is squeezing.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “thước cặp điện tử 150mm”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Common 3D printing problems and how to fix them, in the right order ↗

  • Flush cutters

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    A flat blade laid against the surface takes a support stub off without lifting the shell with it. Scissors and a knife both work, and both leave a scar you then have to sand.

    What to check before you pay

    Blade
    One genuinely flat face, so it can sit flush against the part
    Size
    The 5-inch size handles both fine supports and filament
    Return spring
    A return spring — you will use it a hundred times an evening

    Where this goes wrong

    • Using them on steel or piano wire: one cut chips the edge, and after that they are no longer flush.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “kìm cắt chân linh kiện flush cutter”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Post-processing 3D prints: removing, sanding, smoothing ↗

  • Hex keys and drivers

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Belt tension, nozzle swaps, frame re-squaring — all of it is a 1.5 to 3 mm hex screw. A decent set keeps the socket intact, and a rounded screw deep inside the machine is an evening gone.

    What to check before you pay

    Sizes
    Metric 1.5 / 2 / 2.5 / 3 / 4 mm covers nearly everything
    Ball end
    A ball end on one side reaches screws you cannot get square to
    Steel
    S2 or CR-V stated on the listing; sets that state nothing are usually soft

    Find it

    These open a search for: “bộ lục giác tua vít sửa máy in 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Spatula and razor blades

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    On a flexible steel sheet most parts pop off when you bow the plate. The rest — big footprints, PETG run hot — need a thin blade at the edge. Substituting a screwdriver is the fastest way to gouge the PEI.

    What to check before you pay

    Blade thickness
    Thinner slides under better; a handle saves your palm
    Corners
    Rounded corners, not points — a point punches through the coating

    Find it

    These open a search for: “que cạy chi tiết in 3d spatula”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Bent-nose heat-resistant tweezers

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    The blob that forms during heat-up gets dragged into the first layer if nobody removes it. A bent nose lets you do that with your hand somewhere other than above a 250 °C heater block.

    What to check before you pay

    Tip
    About 45°, moderately fine tip
    Material
    Stainless, with no plastic coating near the tip

    Find it

    These open a search for: “nhíp gắp đầu cong chịu nhiệt”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Feeler gauge

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    A sheet of A4 is about 0.1 mm and varies by batch. A 0.05 and a 0.1 mm leaf give you a repeatable number, and let you compare the four corners against each other rather than against memory.

    What to check before you pay

    Leaf range
    A common 0.02–1.00 mm set is more than enough

    Find it

    These open a search for: “thước lá căn khe feeler gauge”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Glue stick for the bed

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    On smooth PEI, PETG can bond hard enough to take the coating with it. A thin film of glue stick between part and plate is a sacrificial layer that washes off with warm water. On glass, or under a part with a small footprint, the same stick does the opposite job.

    What to check before you pay

    Formula
    The ordinary PVP office stick is exactly the right thing
    Size
    The large size; you will reapply every few prints

    Find it

    These open a search for: “keo khan bôi bàn in 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

03 / 6 groups

Wear parts, and one upgrade

The nozzle and the build surface wear by the hour. A spare bought before it fails costs far less than a machine stopped mid-order waiting for delivery.

  • Double-sided PEI spring steel sheet

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Glass and tape both work, and both make you pry. A PEI-coated spring steel sheet turns part removal into a single flex, and the textured face hides the gloss of the bottom layer as a bonus. It is the one upgrade here that changes every print.

    What to check before you pay

    Size
    Match the bed exactly: 235×235 and 257×257 are the two common sizes
    Coating
    Sheet PEI or powder-coated PEI; avoid a printed plastic decal
    Magnetic base
    If the machine has none, buy the magnetic base too, rated past 100 °C

    Where this goes wrong

    • Printing PETG straight onto smooth PEI with nothing between them — the most common way to tear the coating off a new sheet.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “tấm thép từ tính PEI hai mặt máy in 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Hardened steel nozzle, 0.4 mm

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    Reinforcing fibre eats brass fast enough that a 0.4 mm orifice opens to 0.5 within a few hundred grams, and your walls quietly get thicker. A hardened nozzle costs a few times more and survives the whole spool.

    What to check before you pay

    Thread
    Match the hotend — MK8, Volcano and CHT are not interchangeable
    Material
    Hardened steel, or a plated variant if you print fast and need the conductivity
    Quantity
    Buy two: one to fit, one in the drawer

    Find it

    These open a search for: “đầu phun thép tôi cứng 0.4mm máy in 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:Nylon & composites ↗Polycarbonate ↗

    Read more:Nozzles: brass, hardened steel or bimetal ↗

  • Nozzle set: 0.2 / 0.6 / 0.8 mm

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    0.4 mm is the default because it is worst at nothing. On a large jig, 0.6 or 0.8 halves the time and gives thicker walls at the same perimeter count. On a small mechanism, 0.2 recovers detail 0.4 cannot resolve.

    What to check before you pay

    Same thread
    The same standard as the nozzle in the machine, so the hotend stays
    Marking
    Size stamped on the body — you cannot tell 0.4 from 0.6 by eye

    Find it

    These open a search for: “bộ đầu phun 0.2 0.6 0.8 mm máy in 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Nozzles: brass, hardened steel or bimetal ↗

  • Spare hotend

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    A jam never happens on a quiet evening. A complete spare turns a midnight failure into a ten-minute swap, and the blocked one can be cleared whenever.

    What to check before you pay

    Exact model
    Hotends are not shared even between models from one brand
    Heat break
    All-metal if anything above 250 °C is in your plans

    Find it

    These open a search for: “bộ hotend ống nhiệt heat break dự phòng”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

  • Printer enclosure

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    High-shrink materials crack between layers when the skin cools faster than the core. An enclosure needs no heater: still air a few tens of degrees above the room is already a different result. It also keeps the particles and the smell in the box rather than in the room.

    What to check before you pay

    Internal size
    Measure Z at full height, and the spool too if it lives inside
    Access
    A front that opens wide, and a grommeted pass-through for the filament
    Venting
    A duct port if ABS indoors is the plan

    Where this goes wrong

    • Closing the box around PLA: trapped heat softens the part and softens the filament in the heat break, which is how it jams.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “buồng kín máy in 3d enclosure”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:ABS & ASA ↗Nylon & composites ↗Polycarbonate ↗

    Read more:Enclosures and chamber heating: when you really need them ↗

04 / 6 groups

From off-the-bed to in-service

Most of the distance between a hobby print and a working part is here, not in the machine. This list follows the order set out in the finishing, threading and painting notes.

  • Wet-and-dry paper, 240 to 2000

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    Layer lines are regular grooves, and dry sanding just melts plastic and smears it back. Water carries the swarf away and keeps the surface cool. Jumping 240 to 1000 leaves deep scratches that paint magnifies rather than hides.

    What to check before you pay

    Type
    Wet-and-dry paper, not woodworking abrasive
    Grits
    240, 400, 800, 1200, 2000 — a continuous run to a paintable surface
    Backing block
    A rubber or foam block, so flat surfaces stay flat

    Find it

    These open a search for: “giấy nhám nước bộ 240 400 800 1500 2000”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Post-processing 3D prints: removing, sanding, smoothing ↗Painting 3D prints: primer, colour and topcoat ↗

  • CA glue and activator

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    CA bonds well to PLA and PETG, and the activator turns minutes of clamping into seconds — which matters when your hands are the clamp. For a joint that carries load, two-part epoxy is still the right answer.

    What to check before you pay

    Viscosity
    Gel for gaps, thin for surfaces that already mate
    Activator
    The spray kind, bought at the same time — separately, it gets forgotten

    Where this goes wrong

    • CA on a transparent part: the vapour frosts the surface all around the joint.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “keo 502 CA glue kèm xúc tác activator”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Gluing and threaded inserts for 3D prints ↗

  • Heat-set inserts and a soldering tip

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    A screw driven straight into printed plastic holds for two or three cycles before the thread strips. A brass insert melts the plastic around it and freezes into a mechanical lock — the same hole then takes hundreds of cycles. The dedicated tip exists only to push it in square.

    What to check before you pay

    Thread size
    M3 and M4 cover nearly everything; buy a mixed box
    Tip
    Matched to your iron, usually M4 or the 900M family
    Pilot hole
    Use the insert maker's stated pilot diameter — read it before you print

    Find it

    These open a search for: “ren đồng ép nhiệt M3 M4 kèm mũi hàn”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Gluing and threaded inserts for 3D prints ↗

  • Filler primer, aerosol

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    Colour laid straight on printed plastic advertises every remaining layer line. Filler primer goes on thicker, fills the grooves, and is then sanded back at 800 to a single flat surface — that is the surface colour belongs on.

    What to check before you pay

    Type
    Stated as filler or high-build, not an ordinary thin primer
    Compatibility
    Strong solvent primers can attack PLA — test on a scrap part first

    Find it

    These open a search for: “sơn lót filler primer dạng xịt”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Painting 3D prints: primer, colour and topcoat ↗

  • An oven you can set a temperature on

    When you need it — Only when a job asks for it. Bought early, it is money in a drawer.

    Why it is on the list

    Annealing means holding a part below its softening point for hours, and a few tens of degrees of error is a slumped part. A small oven or air fryer with a real temperature dial does the job — but it has to be a dedicated one, never the kitchen oven.

    What to check before you pay

    Range
    Settable at 60–120 °C, a band most full-size ovens cannot reach
    Stability
    Fan-assisted; the heat distribution is far better than a bare element

    Where this goes wrong

    • Sharing it with food. Plastic vapour and print dust do not belong where food is cooked, and no amount of cleaning takes that back.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “nồi chiên không dầu có cài nhiệt độ”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:Annealing 3D prints: what you gain and what you lose ↗

05 / 6 groups

If you print resin, these four ship with the machine

Uncured resin is a skin and eye irritant, and it does not make exceptions for experience. These four are not accessories; they are the condition for printing resin indoors.

  • Wash-and-cure station

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Resin left on the surface keeps irritating skin and stays tacky for days, and an under-cured part stays soft and keeps creeping. A tub and sunlight will do it, but sunlight in Vietnam varies by hour and season — a station gives you the same result every time.

    What to check before you pay

    Basket size
    Larger than your printer's build area
    UV wavelength
    405 nm, the same wavelength the printer's screen uses
    Turntable
    A turntable and a reflective wall, so every face gets light

    Find it

    These open a search for: “máy rửa và hóa rắn resin wash and cure”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:Resin ↗

    Read more:Washing and curing resin prints: the process and the mistakes ↗

  • Nitrile gloves

    Buy first — The printer runs without it, but you will lose parts — or the machine — in the first few weeks.

    Why it is on the list

    Uncured resin is an irritant and can sensitise you over time — the long-time resin printers who develop an allergy are usually the ones who got comfortable and stopped gloving. Nitrile resists resin; latex does not, and thin polythene gloves tear.

    What to check before you pay

    Material
    Nitrile, stated on the box — not latex, not vinyl
    Thickness
    Thicker than the thinnest medical grade — you will handle edged tools

    Find it

    These open a search for: “găng tay nitrile hộp 100 cái”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:Resin ↗

  • Resin funnel and filters

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    Every failed print leaves cured flakes at the bottom of the vat, and those flakes puncture the FEP on the next one. Filtering on the way back into the bottle is the two-minute step that saves a film change.

    What to check before you pay

    Filter
    Disposable paper cones by the pack — you will get through them
    Funnel
    A neck that fits the resin bottle, with a handle

    Find it

    These open a search for: “phễu lọc resin giấy lọc 3d”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:Resin ↗

  • UV-blocking eyewear

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    A 405 nm screen and a cure lamp both emit at a wavelength your pupil does not contract against. A few seconds once is nothing; working beside it a few hundred times a year is a different question.

    What to check before you pay

    Blocked wavelength
    Stated to block through 400–410 nm, not just labelled anti-UV
    Style
    Over-glasses style if you already wear spectacles

    Find it

    These open a search for: “kính bảo hộ chống tia UV 405nm”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Materials it serves:Resin ↗

06 / 6 groups

Three things you hope never to use

A 3D printer runs unattended for tens of hours, holds a heater cartridge, and emits ultrafine particles and volatile organics at high nozzle temperatures. None of these costs as much as one bad night.

  • HEPA and activated-carbon air cleaner

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    FDM printers emit ultrafine particles as the plastic melts, and emission rises with nozzle temperature — PLA at 210 °C and ABS at 250 °C are not the same exposure. HEPA catches the particles; the carbon bed catches the volatile organics, which is the part you can smell.

    What to check before you pay

    Two stages
    Both HEPA and carbon — HEPA alone does nothing for odour
    Carbon mass
    A thick or granular bed; a thin carbon-coated mat saturates within weeks
    Replacements
    Replacement cartridges sold locally, and you know their price before buying

    Where this goes wrong

    • Treating a filter as permission to print ABS in a closed bedroom. It reduces exposure; it does not replace venting outdoors.

    Find it

    These open a search for: “máy lọc không khí HEPA than hoạt tính”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:3D printing safety: fumes, ultrafine particles and ventilation ↗

  • Organic-vapour respirator

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    Sanding makes fine plastic dust, aerosol paint makes solvent mist, and both pass through a cloth mask as if it were not there. An organic-vapour cartridge is the only one of the three layers that actually holds solvent.

    What to check before you pay

    Cartridge class
    Organic vapour (A1 or equivalent) with a P2/P3 particle pre-filter
    Fit
    A half-mask that seals — a beard breaks the seal, and nothing fixes that
    Cartridge life
    Cartridges expire even unopened; write the opening date on the shell

    Find it

    These open a search for: “mặt nạ phòng độc lọc hơi hữu cơ”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:3D printing safety: fumes, ultrafine particles and ventilation ↗Post-processing 3D prints: removing, sanding, smoothing ↗

  • Smoke alarm over the printer

    Worth it early — Buy it after your third spool, once you know what you actually print.

    Why it is on the list

    The heater cartridge, the power terminals and the switching supply have each started fires on budget machines. A battery smoke alarm on the ceiling above the printer prevents nothing, but it is the only thing in the house that knows before the smoke reaches where you sleep.

    What to check before you pay

    Sensor
    Photoelectric, which is the more sensitive kind for smouldering plastic and wiring
    Power
    Its own battery, so it still works when the room loses power

    Find it

    These open a search for: “báo khói cảm biến quang điện gắn trần”. There are no affiliate links here, and ZORVA vouches for no seller — read the listing and the reviews yourself.

    Read more:3D printing safety: fumes, ultrafine particles and ventilation ↗

Frequently asked

Frequently asked

Dryer or dry box first?

The dryer, if it is one or the other. A sealed box keeps a dry spool dry; it cannot take water out of a wet one — and at Vietnamese humidity a spool bought off a shelf is usually damp before it reaches your door.

Do I really need a hardened nozzle?

Only if carbon- or glass-filled filament is in your future, or glow-in-the-dark and metal-filled grades. On plain PLA and PETG a brass nozzle will outlast your ownership of the machine.

What are the Shopee, TikTok Shop and Lazada links?

They are search queries built from the Vietnamese term sellers actually file the item under, not links to a particular product. They carry no affiliate code, and ZORVA earns nothing if you buy.

Why are there no prices?

Because a marketplace price moves week to week, seller to seller and voucher to voucher, so a number written here is wrong within a month and unverifiable the day it is written. What does not move is what the item has to do — so that is what this page records.